ESRAP Best Practices
Insights and new directions
Sustainable Materials and Design- A Personal Journey
Anupama Pasricha, Associate Professor and Department Chair
St. Catherine University, St. Paul, Minnesota
www.stkate.edu
St. Catherine University, St. Paul, Minnesota
www.stkate.edu
Sustainable Practices in Fashion
Sustainability is the paradigm of the 21st century that seeks a balance of ecologically sound, economically viable, socially just, and humane values. Aaris Sherin in her book Sustainable thinking: Ethical approaches to design and design management states that designer of sustainable fashion is “a strategic thinker, a successful creative maker, and an experienced communicator driven by value-based decision making.” The decisions made at the design phase influence the sustainability of the entire supply chain. Sustainable design is yet not mainstream because of lack of awareness, causing lower demand and thus higher costs for these products.
One of my students Briana Turnbull completed a project in January of 2015. She has attempted to categorize and create a sustainable design practices model (see below). This model could be a starting point for scholars in sustainable apparel design:
One of my students Briana Turnbull completed a project in January of 2015. She has attempted to categorize and create a sustainable design practices model (see below). This model could be a starting point for scholars in sustainable apparel design:
Personal Design Journey
I teach sustainable design each year in my design studio courses. Students read and discuss Sustainable fashion: What next? By Janet Hethorn and Connie Ulasewicz http://amzn.com/1628925310 and several other articles throughout the curriculum, it helps us develop a holistic perspective and personal viewpoint on sustainability.
Inspiration, Muse, and Research
This past year I chose to conduct a creative exploration of value-driven design to create apparel using sustainable practices. The goal was to create a fashion-forward yet classic line of 5-6 ensembles focused on sustainability.
During fall 2015, I started collecting information on inspiration, and design research and fabric sourcing. It was daunting yet overwhelming and almost felt like a ginormous task. Realization of cost, accessibility, minimum orders, absence/presence of certification, and many more opportunities and challenges kept it exciting. Teaching fulltime and chairing the department also kept me occupied.
In December 2015, I was approached by Minnesota (MN) Historical Society for an original design show inspired by Indian textiles as part of Beyond Bollywood Smithsonian Exhibit Event. I was thrilled as it sounded like a perfect opportunity to get in touch with my Indian roots and focus on 1-2 sustainability strategies. I traveled to India in February 2016 and took the opportunity to select fabrics and find my muse. Besides purchasing GOTS certified fabrics from http://www.herbalfab.com/, receiving organic cotton mill remnants from http://www.pratibhasyntex.com/, I returned with a new impetus and started sketching. I also chose a selection from my old saris that I knew I will not be wearing ever.
During fall 2015, I started collecting information on inspiration, and design research and fabric sourcing. It was daunting yet overwhelming and almost felt like a ginormous task. Realization of cost, accessibility, minimum orders, absence/presence of certification, and many more opportunities and challenges kept it exciting. Teaching fulltime and chairing the department also kept me occupied.
In December 2015, I was approached by Minnesota (MN) Historical Society for an original design show inspired by Indian textiles as part of Beyond Bollywood Smithsonian Exhibit Event. I was thrilled as it sounded like a perfect opportunity to get in touch with my Indian roots and focus on 1-2 sustainability strategies. I traveled to India in February 2016 and took the opportunity to select fabrics and find my muse. Besides purchasing GOTS certified fabrics from http://www.herbalfab.com/, receiving organic cotton mill remnants from http://www.pratibhasyntex.com/, I returned with a new impetus and started sketching. I also chose a selection from my old saris that I knew I will not be wearing ever.
Developing a Cohesive Collection
Next came the challenge on how to make the collection cohesive when every fabric seemed to make a personal connection either because it was a precious old sari or it had another valuable sustainability attribute. Every day, I would go down to my home studio space and stare at the fabrics, it was getting hard to make a decision. I started stressing out and lost some time, eventually involved my daughters in the decision making process. Resist dyed sari fabrics- batik and ikat stood out in their beauty and technique cohesiveness. Finalized the sketches, fabrics, and sustainability strategies. Voila!
Continuing with the sustainability lens, as I worked on my designs, I started thinking about the materials other than the fashion/self-fabric. I found the perfect white GOTS certified organic cotton fabric from http://organiccottonplus.com/ and http://www.harmonyart.com/ to underline and interface my garments. I did use minimal fusible interfacing. I tried to find sustainable fusible interfacing but in vain. I also used organic cotton as well as recycled polyester thread. I used recycled polyester for better seam performance Check out https://www.guetermann.com/shop/en/view/content/Guetermann-Sustainability?node=sustainability_node_comp
Finally, the collection of six ensembles came to being and looked beautiful, cohesive, empowering, and elegant, and is designed for diverse women who value individuality, the environment, and well-being. I chose to include both professional wear as well as evening wear. Lovely volunteer models strutted in their ensembles on the Runway at Minnesota History Center http://www.minnesotahistorycenter.org/
Continuing with the sustainability lens, as I worked on my designs, I started thinking about the materials other than the fashion/self-fabric. I found the perfect white GOTS certified organic cotton fabric from http://organiccottonplus.com/ and http://www.harmonyart.com/ to underline and interface my garments. I did use minimal fusible interfacing. I tried to find sustainable fusible interfacing but in vain. I also used organic cotton as well as recycled polyester thread. I used recycled polyester for better seam performance Check out https://www.guetermann.com/shop/en/view/content/Guetermann-Sustainability?node=sustainability_node_comp
Finally, the collection of six ensembles came to being and looked beautiful, cohesive, empowering, and elegant, and is designed for diverse women who value individuality, the environment, and well-being. I chose to include both professional wear as well as evening wear. Lovely volunteer models strutted in their ensembles on the Runway at Minnesota History Center http://www.minnesotahistorycenter.org/
Creating this collection was not easy, but I experienced bliss after showcasing the collection. I know my collection is not perfect, but each step to bring change is a well-taken step, it is a constant improvement. This collection brought my vison to life. In a bigger picture, I would like to see sustainability as a required standard of functional and aesthetic performance of any garment and fashion.
Insights
Sourcing sustainable materials is still difficult and expensive, higher the sustainability standard, the harder it is. As a designer, you have to set your goals and priorities, and then accommodate and work within set boundaries. You may have to change your design or tweak the idea, if you are unable to do, you will only be frustrated. Limit your variables and let go. Taking one step at a time has helped me within my context.
Reflection
In the end, I would like to say that self-evaluation and reflection have deepened my sense of consciousness towards a personal vision of sustainability, and the realization that I have embodied this mission through my teaching, research, and design work. The reflective process has become a way of thinking and processing my thoughts and actions. I believe that my passion for sustainability helps me continue to grow and flourish as an individual, educator, researcher, and designer. This growth has enabled me to bring forth progressive influence on my students, colleagues, and community. It has brought me delight, triumph, and empowerment to continue the journey.